Behind the scenes of the creation of Black Oregano

Atelier Materi unveils Black Oregano, the fourth extrait in its Extraits de Parfum collection.
Rarely explored in perfumery, oregano becomes the unexpected muse for a creation that is both bold and resolutely modern. Balancing aromatic freshness with sensual depth, this singular ingredient reveals its full character through the olfactory writing of Céline Perdriel, guided by the vision of Véronique Le Bihan, the House’s founder.

In this interview, she takes us behind the scenes of the creation, revealing how Black Oregano embodies Atelier Materi’s spirit of innovation and creative freedom.

Oregano is a rare ingredient in perfumery. What drew you to work with it for this new extrait?

For some time, I had been thinking about how to explore the world of aromatic notes with the desire to break away from tradition. Aromatics have a long history in perfumery, yet they are often associated with very classic, slightly vintage creations, sometimes carrying masculine connotations. I wanted to give them a new dimension, more textured, more contrasted, and above all, thoroughly contemporary.

It was during a conversation with Céline Perdriel, the perfumer behind Black Oregano, that the idea of using oregano first emerged. She had just received a bouquet of wild oregano from Portugal, an ingredient that seems simple at first, yet its strength and complexity left a lasting impression. I was immediately intrigued. Experiencing this plant, I sensed an incredible richness: a bright, almost incisive side, paired with a deeper, warmer, and more mysterious facet.

The contrast between freshness and intensity/sensuality is at the heart of this fragrance. How did this duality influence your choice of raw materials?

This duality was the guiding thread from the very beginning. With oregano, there was already a natural tension: a vibrant, sparkling aromatic freshness contrasting with a warmer, enveloping, slightly leathery facet. We wanted to amplify this contrast by selecting ingredients that enhance the opposition, while still maintaining a sense of balance.

To achieve this balance, we structured the fragrance as a continuous dialogue. On one side, fresh and luminous ingredients – Peruvian lime, cardamom, and rosemary – highlight the brightness of the oregano and amplify its aromatic intensity. On the other, warmer, more sensual notes – sandalwood, vetiver, patchouli, cistus labdanum, and oud – settle the composition, giving it body and depth.
The challenge was to maintain this duality without letting either side dominate. Oregano then becomes a bridge between these two dimensions: it preserves its bright freshness while opening the door to warmer, woodier, and leathered notes. It is in this very contrast, I believe, that the true originality of the fragrance lies.

How does Black Oregano fit into Atelier Materi’s overall vision?

Atelier Materi’s vision is to explore raw materials in a new way, revealing their inherent beauty and unexpected facets. Each creation arises from the desire to offer a new interpretation of an often overlooked or surprising ingredient, transforming it into a truly unique olfactory experience.
With Black Oregano, we continue this creative gesture: taking a well-known plant, almost common in the collective imagination, and reinventing it by placing it at the heart of a refined, contrasted composition. Oregano, rarely explored in perfumery, becomes here a noble, vibrant, and ambivalent ingredient. It perfectly embodies the spirit of innovation and singularity that guides the House.

What sets Black Oregano apart from the other extraits in the collection? After all, oud wood is also part of the composition.

Each extrait in the collection is built around a key ingredient that defines its identity and character. In Black Oregano, oregano takes the lead, guiding the entire creation. While oud wood is present, as it is in Burgundy Oud, it does not play a central role here: instead, it lingers in the background, settling the composition and enhancing the sensuality of the trail without ever dominating it.

Black Oregano also stands apart from the other extraits in the collection by opening the door to a new olfactory territory: aromatics, approached through a concept built on duality. This structure relies on the subtle balance of opposing forces, creating a signature that is contrasted, bold, and uniquely distinctive within the collection.

Each creation seems to explore a material in an unexpected way. What does “exploring a material differently” mean to you?

Exploring a material differently means refusing to stop at first impressions and delving into its most intimate, unexpected facets. Every ingredient holds hidden richness, sometimes concealed dimensions that are not immediately apparent.
I love studying each raw material with an almost instinctive curiosity, aiming to bring it to light, give it a new voice, and offer a fresh perspective. The goal is to take it somewhere unexpected, creating contrasts and tensions that surprise and open new olfactory horizons, all while remaining true to the essence of the material. It is not about disguising it, but rather about showcasing its full complexity, highlighting its ambivalence and emotional power.

This creation seems to push certain olfactory boundaries. What message do you hope to convey through it about Atelier Materi’s identity?

With Black Oregano, I wanted to embody the boldness and creative freedom at the heart of Atelier Materi’s identity. Pushing olfactory boundaries, for me, means daring to explore less obvious territories, and taking unexpected paths that reveal a material in a new light.
The House does not limit itself to what is expected or conventional: it explores, reinvents, and offers a new vision.

It is also a way of showing that our identity is shaped by the tension between rigor and sensitivity: rigor in the attention we give to raw materials and craftsmanship, sensitivity in the way we tell their story and evoke emotion. Black Oregano embodies this ambition, creating perfumes that leave a lasting impression, spark curiosity, and express the raw, singular beauty of the materials.