Céline Perdriel Portrait 

“I was immediately captivated by the genuine olfactory signature I encountered at Atelier Materi.”

Céline Perdriel is a woman of the South. More specifically, from the South-West.

From this origin, she has maintained a close connection with the scents of nature and an accent that sometimes hints at a melodic sound. Over the course of her 20-year career, she has experienced all aspects of perfumery in France and abroad: China, the Middle East, and of course, Grasse.

Today, she works for Cosmo International Fragrances. Based in Paris, she leads a creative team in liaison with the American company’s offices in Miami and Barcelona.

In 2020, she met Véronique Le Bihan, creator of Atelier Materi, a brand that allowed her to express her sensitivity and authenticity. This meeting gave birth to some of the house’s flagship fragrances, such as Rose Ardoise and Cuir Nilam.

In a word, Céline is a perfumer. We met her for you.

Can you tell us about your first fragrance memory?

During my childhood, my family lived in the countryside between Toulouse and Agen in the Garonne valley. My mother was an interior decorator, while my father practiced as a country doctor. I was surrounded by fields, flourishing fruit trees and vibrant flowers, whose fragrances have remained etched in my memory.

In my childhood memories, smells play a predominant role, especially the changing scents of the seasons. The awakening of spring, the warmth of summer, the decline of autumn and the biting cold of winter. 

I also have fond memories of my grandfather’s artisan bakery workshop. He used to bake a Bon-Encontre specialty, the tortillon, a sweetly scented wreath of orange blossom, lemon and vanilla. Even now, those memories remain vivid in my mind.

Is there an everyday scent that particularly moves you?

I’m a great tea lover. When I’m working, I always have a cup of tea by my side! I particularly like the subtle blend of bergamot and smoked wood: Earl Grey Smoky is a real Proust’s madeleine.  The scent of Tie Guan Yin green tea instantly takes me on a trip to China.

But the scent that moves me most is the one of my two children, the sweet essence of their skin and hair. 

Is it this affinity with the smells that surround you that led you to become a perfumer?

Definitely! Ever since I was a child, I have been captivated by smells. The act of inhaling the fragrances of plants, flowers, fruit, vegetables, and even books has always fascinated me. When I grew up, I came to realize that the profession of perfumer existed, and it became an undeniable and obvious choice for me.

Beyond everyday scents, what significance do perfumes hold in your life? 

They play an essential role for me as I connect deeply with scents. Each note, each fragrance has the power to transport me back to specific moments, places, and encounters in my life. Perfume is undeniably intertwined with my very essence.

How did you become a perfumer and what sparked your desire for it? 

It all started when I was eight years old and received a set of vials filled with various aromatic accords from my grandmother as a Christmas gift. I spent hours playing with these bottles, being captivated by the diverse and enchanting fragrances of rose, jasmine, citrus, woods, and balms.  This early experience ignited my passion for exploring the different facets of perfumes. 

Then, I became passionate about a wine tasting game, which offered to explore a hundred different notes. Determined to cultivate my sense of smell, I tirelessly practiced recognizing scent combinations. 

As I grew up, my passion for perfumery only deepened, and I was fortunate enough to meet Jean-Claude Ellena in Grasse. At the time, I didn’t fully realize how lucky I was. He offered invaluable guidance on my educational path, leading me to believe that this was the profession meant for me.

After high school, I followed the typical path to enter the perfume industry. I attended a chemistry faculty and then went to Isipca (Superior Institute of Perfumery, Cosmetics, and Food Aromatics) for a two-year program. During this time, I even had the opportunity to gain practical experience through a work-study placement at Synarome.

Do you have a favorite accord?

Rather than discussing favourite accords, I prefer to express my preference for certain ingredients that I enjoy using in compositions, such as clary sage. I find this material absolutely fascinating, and it can also be found in Rose Ardoise. When combined with Ambroxan, a mineral element, it creates a truly magical effect.

Additionally, I have a strong affinity for ambery scents, whether it is the rich warmth of labdanum that I worked with in Cuir Nilam. 

However, I must confess my addiction to chocolate! I have a true passion for white cocoa, a material that can be found in Cacao Porcelana. The exceptional roasting craftsmanship by a master chocolatier gives it a captivating roasted aroma.

This ingredient provides a comforting and indulgent experience, evoking a sense of addictive pleasure. I love smelling it regularly when I formulate, it reassures me as much as it inspires me. 

What can you tell us about your collaboration with Atelier Materi? 

I discovered the collection shortly after its launch in 2020, when there were six fragrances. I worked with Véronique, the founder, on the creation of the last two, Rose Ardoise and Cuir Nilam.

As I explored the collection, I found that all the fragrances had something special, something a little sensual. They make me want to wear them on my skin. 

I sensed a real olfactory signature that immediately seduced me, an uncommon creative approach. Real creative choices that you don’t come across every day! Fragrances that are richly elaborated, highly textured around materials, with a modern approach and unrivalled singularity.

What I particularly appreciate about Véronique when creating a fragrance is her willingness to dare. To dare contrasting and singular combinations. Daring to overdose on raw materials in a composition. Daring to bring rare materials to the fore. Together, we constantly strive for contrast and surprise, making bold olfactory choices while maintaining a natural elegance.

I’ve also been lucky enough to have the support of my entire team from the outset in developing this collaboration, which we’ve been fostering for 3 years now.

Can you tell us about your creative process?

To unleash my creative flow, I find it essential to establish a sense of grounding and inspiration. Surrounding myself with objects that bring me comfort and ignite my imagination is crucial. I always carry a sandalwood Buddha statue that accompanies me everywhere ;  origami folds which evoke cherished memories  and a photograph of my children.

Having my favourite raw materials readily accessible is equally important. This allows me to engage with them fully, through contemplation, smell, and touch. At present, I have tonka beans which I enjoy playing with, rubbing and warming them in my hands.

I create a personal bubble where I can fully immerse myself in the creative process. This entails isolating myself from distractions by listening to music that resonates with my emotions. Inhaling the soothing aroma of a warm cup of tea and indulging in a small piece of chocolate also enhance my focus and elevate my senses. 

How do you approach the creative proposals of Atelier Materi?

I greatly appreciate working with Véronique. The universe of her brand is powerful, and her requests are always very inspiring, filled with keywords, visuals, olfactory impressions, and personal inspirations.

She displays a great open-mindedness when it comes to the creative aspect, while maintaining a rigorous requirement in the choice of raw materials. These must come from the most exceptional terroirs and be respectful of both humans and nature.
Even before starting to create, I like to take the time to find a name for my creation. Finding the name of my composition is crucial as it will have an impact on inspiration.

So what was the chosen name for Cuir Nilam? What was your inspiration?

For the creation of Cuir Nilam, Véronique desired a leather patchouli note, imbued with exceptional elegance. For the leather note, inspiration came from the leather perfecto, a symbol of haute couture.

To better grasp this idea, I delved into the history of the perfecto and explored this concept in depth. My research led me into the world of cinema, where I discovered that the first perfecto was worn on screen by Marlon Brando in the movie “The Wild One” in 1953. 

The name for the creation then naturally imposed itself: “The Wild One.”

What choices did you make in creating the Cuir Nilam ?

I carefully selected different varieties of leather to bring out their unique characteristics and blend them together to create a luxurious and authentic leather scent. To add a green aspect to the leather note, I introduced a top note of violet leaf. Cardamom was added for a spicy touch, while a hint of cumin provided warmth. 

An overdose of patchouli leaves was used to create a modern interpretation, moving away from its association with the hippie movement. Various qualities of patchouli were combined to bring out more contrast and enhance the leather perfecto.

What fragrance(s) do you wear? Do you wear multiple fragrances? 

Personally, I always wear my own creations so that I can assess them over time. Currently, my favourite fragrance is Rose Ardoise, which I have been wearing for several months. Its mineral essence, subtle strength, and mysterious undertones captivate me. I have a fondness for fragrances that have marked specific periods in my life, those that are intertwined with personal experiences. One such fragrance is Fleurs d’oranger by Serge Lutens, which takes me back to my childhood and evokes memories of my grandfather’s workshop. Another example is Diorella, which never fails to exhilarate me. This summer, I have been donning Atelier Materi’s upcoming creation, which has garnered numerous compliments. However, I ask for your patience as it will be released soon!