Vanille Carbone, the perfumer’s word

Natalie Gracia Cetto, Perfumer, Interview

What drew you to the world of the Maison?

What fascinates me is how each fragrance elevates a raw material, whether classic or unconventional. Every ingredient takes center stage, offering an olfactory signature that’s both contrasting and nuanced, even with iconic materials like vanilla. I especially enjoy the process of exploring and revealing the many facets of these raw materials. It’s this exploration and the way ingredients are brought to life that makes perfumery so captivating to me.

How would you define the world of Atelier Materi? Can you tell us how you interpreted this universe through the fragrance?

In this fragrance, I wanted to give vanilla its full power, while preserving a deep delicacy and an unapologetic minimalism. Here, vanilla is reinterpreted in a contemporary way, giving it a singular and precious dimension. This creation highlights the intrinsic beauty of vanilla, presenting it in a new light while staying true to its essence. It’s this fusion of tradition and modernity that defines the spirit of Atelier Materi.

What drew you to the inspirations and references I shared in my initial brief? What inspired you to create Vanille Carbone?

What fascinated me was this idea of contrast between matte and luminous, shadow and light, coexisting in perfect harmony. This duality evokes a form of expression that we also see in other art forms, like painting, where great masters have mastered the balance between harmony and contrast. To create Vanille Carbone, I sought to capture that same essence. The fragrance plays with these oppositions, highlighting the richness and depth of vanilla while integrating elements that bring light. It’s this interplay of olfactory facets that gives the creation its unique dimension.

Do you have a scent memory that influenced this creation?

Yes, I remember the first time I smelled a vanilla pod. I was struck by its complexity. I realized how multifaceted this material is, with animalistic notes, far from the sweet, gourmand image it’s often given. I wanted to capture that richness and depth in Vanille Carbone, revealing the lesser-known facets of this iconic ingredient.

Vanille Carbone is a singular vanilla, both deep and contrasted. How did you approach this duality between shadow and light in its composition?

By carefully selecting olfactory pairings. I integrated a leather accord that adds both texture and sophistication. To balance this richness, I added spicy notes, especially black pepper and pink peppercorn. Pink peppercorn, with their bright, sparkling, and fresh character, contrast perfectly with the vanilla, which is warm, deep, sensual, and intense. It is this alchemy between shadow and light that makes Vanille Carbone so unique and captivating.

Vanilla is an iconic raw material in perfumery.
How did you want to reinterpret it?

I wanted to reveal its lesser-known facets, stepping away from the traditional gourmand approach. My goal was to highlight its noble and sensual character, exploring deeper, more seductive nuances. This approach redefines vanilla as a rich and complex material capable of evoking intense emotions.

You chose to use three exceptional qualities of vanilla. Can you explain what each one brings to the fragrance?

I selected three exceptional vanilla extracts to create a rich and complex composition, each bringing its own dimension to the fragrance. Vanilla Absolute Madagascar Orpur™, with its more leathery and animalic facets, captures the raw depth of vanilla, grounding the fragrance with a warm, sensual base. Vanilla CO2 Absolute Madagascar Orpur™ elevates the absolute to the top notes, adding a fresh, airy brightness that balances the richness of the base. This creates a dynamic and captivating contrast, revealing vanilla in all its nuances. Vanilla Tincture Madagascar Orpur™, similar to the vanilla extract used in pastry, adds a delicate gourmand touch.

Aside from vanilla, what other raw material played a key role in the fragrance’s construction?

The patent leather accord played a key role in shaping Vanille Carbone. This accord is mainly composed of labdanum resinoid, which adds an amber richness, and styrax, which gives a leathery, vinyl-like texture, creating a smooth, glossy effect in the composition. I also incorporated black pepper notes (Black Pepper Oil Madagascar Orpur™) in the top, which add a vibrant, dynamic, and matte dimension to the fragrance. These are contrasted by the Pink Peppercorn, which bring a sparkling, and radiant freshness.

The texture and depth of the fragrance are very intense. How did you achieve this effect?

I focused on using high-quality, noble raw materials. These inherently rich and complex ingredients are essential to creating a fragrance that stands out for its depth. Playing with textures also allowed me to craft a rich and multidimensional olfactory experience, where each element fully expresses itself while contributing to the overall harmony of the perfume. It is this attention to detail and to the quality of materials that gives Vanille Carbone its striking depth and texture.

What makes Vanille Carbone a unisex fragrance for you?

Vanille Carbone is a unisex fragrance because of the universal nature of vanilla, evoking childhood memories and emotions shared by everyone. It is a distinctive scent that speaks to all, regardless of gender.
Additionally, in this composition, I intentionally avoided conventional notes and traditional codes often associated with masculine or feminine fragrances. This creates a harmonious balance that transcends gender categories. Every fragrance is a personal choice, and Vanille Carbone invites each individual, whether man or woman, to explore and express their own identity through this fragrance.

At what moment did you know the fragrance was ready?

For me, a fragrance is ready when, during the final evaluation, every minor adjustment I have made across the different versions fully satisfy me. That is when I know the composition is solid and will stand the test of time. Additionally, it is crucial to feel confident about how the fragrance will be perceived by the public and its overall olfactory impact. When all these elements come together, I know it is ready.

What memories do you have of this experience?

Pure enjoyment at every stage of creation!

If you had to describe Vanille Carbone in three words, what would they be?

Sensual, rich, and intense.